Monday 11 November 2013

Six months and counting

Six months ago we landed in Sweden at the start of summer. The nights were cool but short; however the days were long and warm. Within in a few weeks even the cool nights disappeared and we were lucky enough to experience a long warm and dry summer. ‘One of the best in living memory’ apparently, however in my experience people’s memories are very short when it comes to weather so it’s hard to quantify statements like that.

At first I struggling to sleep at night as it never truly got dark and the curtains in our temporary accommodation were wafer thin. However, six months later a lot has changed as can be expected. We are now in the depths of autumn. It’s a beautiful season in Stockholm with its plentiful parks and reserves. Despite the shortening colder days, I am also enjoying it because I’m not really used to autumn as it’s usually short and not as dramatic in New Zealand, and kind of non-existent the further north up the country you go.

So, seen as how it is the six month anniversary of us arriving, I thought it timely for some more random insights and impressions listed under things I like and things I dislike.

Must be autumn
Things I like:

Houses are built for the conditions.
You always know what to wear in winter in New Zealand in the morning. Recoiled under your duvet in the early hours of the morning, your hands grabbing at the duvets edge willing it closer to your body, you generally know how cold it is outside by how cold your nose is. Maybe if you are lucky enough to have sufficient heating going it is probably a few degrees warmer inside than out, but if you can see your breath and can dress yourselves in five seconds flat it’s probably going to pretty cold outside. However in Sweden (and probably most of the rest of the developed world for that matter) it’s impossible to know. Because in Sweden they have this amazing technology with things like double / triple (yes triple) glazing, insulation and central heating. I know, these terms are practically vacant from the kiwi builder’s vocabulary. When autumn first arrived in Stockholm, I kept trying to leave our apartment in shorts and a t-shirt. Now I know better. I now know that it WILL be bloody cold outside despite how little I can wear inside, so I dress accordingly.

Amazing parental benefits and a system that really supports working parents
480 days of paid parental leave (at 80% of your salary) to be shared between mum and dad. And that’s for each child.

Great place to bring up children.
Stockholm is awash with open green spaces (which are slowly turning to mud), children’s play grounds around every corner and loads of indoor children’s activities including cafes were there are more toys than coffee and more playing areas than table space.
This is a cafe in central Stockholm
Green parks and forests are everywhere in Stockholm - at least until autumn when they are brown and winter when they are white!
The green space gets browner by the day. Ana doing her afternoon gymnastics.

Great cycling facilities and lots of people using bicycles as local transport
You can cycle virtually anywhere without even touching a road.

Car drivers are in general, patient and considerate
Not that you have to ride on the road if you don’t want to (see above), but when you do – and you are allowed, drivers conveniently pull off the road, put their hazard lights on and cheer as you ride past (well it feels like it after commuting in Christchurch).

Great public transport
Stockholm is well served by Tunnelbana (underground/metro), buses and trains.

Close to other places that are not Australia
No offense to the hot dust bowl of a neighbour of course.

Five things I dislike

Housing situation in Stockholm is diabolical
The housing situation in Stockholm is to put it simply… pathetic. I have written about it before but the more I am here the more I understand it. I understand and agree with the reasons behind limiting private investment and preventing the massive landlord / renter market that exists in a lot of the world, but unfortunately it simply isn’t working in Stockholm. The waiting lists for a first hand rental (the only type of rental that legal entitles you not to move every 12 months) is approximately 15 years. Therefore you with stuck with purchasing, or renting off other renters (2nd hand rental) for a maximum of 12 months at a time… ugh.

Reserved and guarded Swedes.
I wouldn’t call the Swedish emotionless, but if they have emotions they don’t show them in public. To be honest it sometimes borders on rudeness. I know it’s not, but it’s hard not to be offended when I see my neighbour quicken his pace to get inside and lock his door, or purposely pretend not to see me so he doesn’t have to actually say hello (god forbid). It’s also acceptable to not even acknowledge people you are dealing with (that’s a bit harsh but a general observation of many customers in the supermarket at the checkout who say nothing throughout the entire transaction making sure that eyes are kept low to avoid any unnecessary facial communication). Even smartly dressed beggars on trains simply passively walk down the isle of a carriage and place a series of neat pieces of paper on vacant seats that outline reasons why you should part with your money for their cause. The note, is usually accompanied by a picture of their (or someone else) child. They wait patiently at the end of the carriage for 30 seconds and then quietly walk back through collecting up their cards and any small change that has been left. To be honest I'd rather see someone making a scene... but that's not the done thing here.

No decent hills to cycle up and down
I love the rolling countryside for cycling, but what I would give for a descent long hill to slog up!

Eternal sickness
OK, so that’s not true either. But for the last 3 weekends, at least 2 (usually all three of us at once) have been sick. It is of course Autumn, we have moved to the other side of the world and our daughter is attending the bacteria breeding ground otherwise known as kindergarten, so it’s no real surprise.

Overall (7-4 = +3)

Yes, a +3 for our first 6 months seems to sum it up nicely, even if it is the most meaningless static ever concocted. It has taken us some time to find our feet (as expected) and we have settled into a daily / weekly routine of sorts. Tina recently started a post-doc at Stockholm University so we are getting into the rhythm of both working while running affairs and the family at home. I have cut back work to 80% and enjoying two afternoons a week with Ana. Autumn hit us with some pretty cold temperatures. We know a lot worse will come, but we had a two week stint of temperatures that would equate to the coldest weather we would expect in Christchurch over the course of the entire winter. It was only the start of autumn, so we were a little scared; it even forced me to go shopping for some warmer clothes! The central heating system in our apartment was barely working, the radiators emitting just the slightest bit of warmth throughout this time. The temperature in our apartment however also did nothing…. it stayed a constant 18ish degrees centigrade for the entirety so we won’t freeze to death while we are inside at least. Aside the cold it has been grey, damp and dreary and the days are shortening - which is the worst. Everyone told us November would be the worst month, until the snows start to come. Bring it on is all I can say!

An afternoon out in the city. We have adapted and take a thermos with coffee / chocolate with us on family outings.

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