Saturday 1 June 2013

The Great Stockholm House Hunt

Finding a place to live in Stockholm is no joke. We were warned about it before we came and all the advice most people in Stockholm can offer is “its really hard”. The reality of the game set in pretty quick as we started our own adventure.

Ironically, the problem seems to stem from Sweden’s egalitarian society which at the end of World War II was transformed from a largely agrarian society into a model representing the ‘middle way’ between capitalism and socialism relying heavily on a social welfare system in which equality was its cornerstone. Home ownership was and is encouraged with heavy tax breaks for people paying mortgages and low interest rates (compared to New Zealand at least) making ownership an attractive proposition, apart from the very high cost that is. However one of the biggest drivers for home ownership would have to be the dismal rental market. We have heard of people giving up on finding somewhere to rent and buying instead!

There are basically disincentives to be a landlord in Sweden. The return on the investment is simply not worth it or negative. There are government schemes to rent, which to be honest I still don’t really understand, but basically babies are put on this list when they are born, the waiting list is so long. So when you get a rental directly from the landlord (termed 1st hand rental - more often than not the landlord is the state) you never let it go. A big advantage to hanging on to the apartment is that the state often sells the apartments with time and if you have been renting it out for a long period, you usually get it very cheap. So when you want to leave, you don’t relinquish the lease (that would be deemed idiotic), you simply sub let it out (termed 2nd hand rental). Believe it or not there are even 3rd hand rentals where you lease from the leaser of the leaser of the landlord. Confused?

Of course everyone adds on a bit of fat to line their pockets, leaser terms become more and more restricted and cumbersome (and often not legal) the further down the chain you become, and you end up with a property market like Stockholm’s where it is nearly impossible to lease directly from the owner of an apartment or house, and 2nd and 3rd hand leasing terms are generally overpriced and short term – 1,2,3 month leases are not uncommon.

Unbelievably, we turned down a 1st hand lease that was made available to us through a friends sisters neighbour before we even set foot in Sweden (I hear everyone in Sweden gasp and call us fools), but it was simply beyond our means. To put it simply, the rental market in Sweden is horrendously hard to crack. A recent Property Federation (Fastighetsägarna) study in Stockholm study had this to say about it:

“The study compares how long it takes to find and sign a contract for a small (40 square meters) rental apartment in eight European capitals.
In six of the cities in the study – Oslo, Copenhagen, Helsinki, Brussels, Madrid and Berlin – you could find an apartment immediately. In Amsterdam it would take you one to five weeks. For Stockholm the figure was a shocking 307 weeks.”

So how is our property search going? Blocket (http://www.blocket.se) is the Trade Me or EBay of Sweden and is generally the first port of call. Apartments and houses are listed, you send a little message to the lister and if you are very lucky they will get back to you. Rumour has it that people listing adverts or available apartments get literally 100s of calls / emails within the first hour and I have heard that if you do not make contact within the first couple of minutes of an advertisement been posted, you may as well forget it. The other option is to list yourself, tag a cheesy photo and hope people will come to you first. So for approximately $120 NZ up our advertisement went:


Our small family (Tim, Tina and young daughter Ana) have recently moved to Stockholm from New Zealand.
We have transferred to Sweden with Tim’s employment and he has taken up a fixed income / permanent position as a scientist in Solna. Tina has recently finished her doctoral studies and will be working in a research position.
We are excited to be Stockholm and seek an apartment or house with a minimum of 2.5 rooms to live for at least six months somewhere in the north of Stockholm (Sollentuna, Danderyd, Täby, Uppland Vasby, Solna, Sundbyberg, Lidingö, Bromma)
We don’t mind if the apartment or house is furnished or unfurnished and are willing to pay up to 12 000 SEK a month.
We are non smokers and have no pets. We have never been in any financial difficulty and are dependable people who are quiet and clean and would look after your apartment / house as if it were our own. We own a house in New Zealand and this is currently leased out long term to tenants.
Please contact me by phone or email if you would like to hear more about us, or you have a property that you think would be suitable for us.
Thank you for your time in reading our advertisement and we hope to hear from you soon.

Tim and Tina
Our Blocket Photo - how could you resist!
We were very lucky to get an almost immediate reply from a lovely lady who worked as a chef on an oil rig (and happened to be 4 months pregnant) and her husband who was a sergeant major in the British Army currently deployed in Afghanistan. They had the perfect apartment for us and if we deposited 3 months rent into a secure bank account, the key would be delivered to us and we would have a 10 day appraisal of the property in which we could decide whether we wanted it or not. Needless to say I stopped communications at that point. We were offered a 1 month lease on the opposite side of town, a two month lease in a 1 roomed 35 m2 apartment, a 3 month lease that may be extended from a lady with two daughters who was moving in with her boyfriend who also had two daughters that could extend into something more long term (if they didn’t hate each other after the first few weeks!) and in the mean time we were sending dozens and dozens of emails to 1st and 2nd hand lease holders of apartments being listed for 2nd and 3rd hand rentals and hearing back from barely any of them. And that was just on Blocket!

As the week went by we sent messages to many people advertising apartments and houses and heard back from barely none of them… apart from those mentioned before. We got quite a few messages from our personal advertisement, but nearly all had apartments or houses with very long commutes, tiny boxes where you couldn’t swing a cat, minuscule lease periods, were over priced and/or in areas that have recently made the International media for the wrong reasons – the Stockholm riots. I came home from work one day and announced that I had had enough and we were going home!

Then Thursday rolled around and I had a nice email from a lady called Eva who had an apartment in Solna, which happens to be the suburb where I am working. We exchanged a few emails and photos and then she sent me the address. The address looked strangely familiar. I copied it into google earth, dragged the little man across to look at the view of the street and laughed out loud. From behind my computer, I stretched to the right and there, outside the window, across the road, was the very same apartment block that my computer screen was showing. In the whole of Stockholm, we were going to look at an apartment directly opposite my office!

So off we went. The apartment was big – 110 m2, and at the very top (maybe a bit over) our price range. Eva and Bo (the 1st hand lease holders) were very nice and the apartment which they had lived in for the past 35 years and had been an embassy for some obscure country before that, seemed like a good catch, even though the décor was not really to our taste. Eva and Bo owned a holiday house on and island near Stockholm and were planning on buying a house in Spain and living there over the Swedish winters, yet still rented the apartment and wanted to continue to rent it (1st hand lease holders), such is the peculiarities of the Stockholm property market. We spent an hour there before leaving, in which time the apartment was offered to us for 12 months. To get a nice apartment with a 12 month lease with no massive sum of money for a bond from people we trusted within 7 days of looking and 14 days of arriving in Stockholm is pretty unheard of. Locals would beat us on the head with the folly of what we did next. We said we would sleep on it. Later that night, Eva sent us an email dropping the rent and asking us to have it… yes this is Stockholm, but it does happen!

Move in 1st of July, and that is our Stockholm great house hunt story.

Unlikely to be too many complaints about the commute length.

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